France/Quiberon - Belle-Ile-en-Mer. Several wine projects are flourishing in the region

Morbihan is the new Eldorado of wine. Several wine projects are flourishing in the region. In Belle-Ile-en-Mer and Quiberon (Morbihan), the beverage has conquered lovers of the Breton soil, including Catherine Bourdon and Gregory Debruyne.

The sea spray, the Côte Sauvage and the buckwheat pancakes. And what if this setting was conducive to wine production? Since 2016, a European law authorizes the planting of vines throughout France. Result: the Bretons are being seduced by this drink.

In Quiberon(Morbihan), Catherine Bourdon's dream, of a lesser scale, has come true. The owner of the Petit Hôtel du Grand Large is looking after 5,000 m² of Chinon vineyards, next to the hamlet of Kerboulevin(Saint-Pierre-Quiberon), with the aim of producing 3,000 bottles for her restaurant and friends.

On Belle-Ile(Morbihan), the Vignes de Kerdonis, which has been the subject of much discussion for the past two years, aims to become one of the largest wine projects in the region. For the time being, nearly 4 hectares of vines have been planted by Grégory Debruyne, out of the 12 envisaged. The goal? To make a 100% local beverage and create jobs on the island.

Respect for the environment

These two projects have in common a biodynamic agriculture, which is characterized by a fertilization of the soil without pesticides, with medicinal plants or manure for example. This type of farming also favors the influence of the stars and nature.

For Catherine Bourdon, it is necessary to set a good example. Assistant to the development of the sector in Morbihan, this former advertising executive wants to remind that she is the only one on the peninsula to have launched into wine: We feel that we are at the beginning of the process, that's what is beautiful.

With natural products

50 minutes by boat, the Bellilois Grégory Debruyne, a market gardener by training, works on the Petit-Cosquet plots, in the commune of Bangor(Morbihan), run by the oenologist Bertrand Malossi and bought by the billionaire Christian Latouche. I would never have agreed to do it if it had not been organic, he explains. Before adding: "For the moment, we have been able to plant white chardonnay and savagnin grapes and we only work with natural products.

Validated by the prefecture in November 2021, the project will involve areas classified Natura 2000, consisting of wasteland or areas in the process of clearing, says the decree and will contribute to the diversification of agricultural activities on the island territory.

"The Breton climate allows to make quality wine

Experts are closely following the progress of these areas. Oenologist at OenoSkol, winemaker and trainer at the agricultural high school of Kerplouz in Auray, Aurélien Berthou testifies to a rapidly expanding industry. The climate in Brittany allows us to produce quality wine. Fifty years ago, it was more complicated. Now, the conditions allow for the ripening of grapes, more northern and white varieties. ".

The reason? Accelerated climate change is reducing yields in large wine-producing regions such as New Aquitaine. If France wants to continue to be a leader in the world, it will obviously have to plant vines further north to compensate for any losses.

One year ago

Catherine Bourdon created a year ago the Association of Breton Winegrowers (AVB), of which Bertrand Malossi is also a member. She is delighted to be able to accompany and share her experiences with curious people who would like to venture into wine, but nuances: I took five years to find a plot of land. People prefer to sell at a high price to build second homes. Finally, I found an owner with whom I signed a lease of eighteen years, which I rent at low prices.

As for the Vignes de Kerdonis, they are still facing the rebellion led by the association La bruyère vagabonde, which accuses them, despite the endorsement of environmental authorities, of destroying the biodiversity of Bellil. We think it is a great opportunity for this little paradise, which has already known vines in its history " , agrees Gregory Debruyne.

Source: ouest-france.fr